I’m singing the title of this blog post in my head to the tune of James Brown’s “Living in America”, which is two layers relevant, since my friends, who live in America, are coming to Albania. Layers of relevant- mmmm, I want cake now. Wait, I get cake tomorrow! Here’s why…
Brian and Tim touch down at Rinas Airport tomorrow at 4 p.m., and they should be in my neck of the woods around 4:30. Since today is Tim’s birthday, I went to my favorite bakery here in Tirana and got him a cake- this was the same place we went for Bobby’s couchsurfer crane topped b’day cake. I even went all out with cups, plates, and napkins. Between my love of cleaning, cooking for other people, taking copious amounts of group pictures, and throwing birthday parties I’m the best 1950’s mom ever, minus the kids and plus 62 years of age. So… quite different, but the point is that my friends are coming and I am over the moon.
Tomorrow is also the start of my 5 day vacation. I know what you’re thinking- vacation, again? Do you ever work? Yes, I do, and yes, the vacation time is a sweet perk of being a teacher (and yes, it was a consideration when I took this career path). However, this school vacation is unique because it is in celebration of 100 years of independence for Albania. When I moved to Albania I had no idea I’d be living here during their 100 year celebration, but once I found out I was grateful for the opportunity to witness it.
As you can imagine, the 100 year celebration of independence is kind of a big deal. Towns have slowly become more and more flag and banner covered. Starting as early as late October flags began cropping up, and it seems like each day more and more bunting and banners and fliers and ribbons have filled in the spaces to join everything together in a huge red and black takeover of the city. It’s all wildly militaristic looking, and the black and red color scheme is harsh and beautiful at the same time.
In the last two weeks there has been an exponential increase in preparations. Each day on my walk to work or the grocery store or to meet up with friends I see something new adorning a wall or the side of a building, and even the lamp posts are now black and red swirled. A huge, black, double headed eagle now sits in the middle of my nemesis, the traffic circle Zogu i Zi, and the circle itself is ringed with banners and flags.
It definitely makes wading across the sea of traffic a bit more celebratory in the mornings when I congratulate myself for once again not getting hit by a car or a bus or a motorcycle going the wrong way.
Last minute construction and beautification projects are also springing up at an impressive pace. The most recent involved tilling up all the land and sidewalk in a small triangular park on our street. Since the sidewalk is gone, one must now walk in the street, which unfortunately does not have a shoulder, or cones, or anything safe, but hey, it’s for the country, and I oblige.
The qender (center) is also encircled with red and black columns, banners, and flags. The land is tilled up in some areas around the grass there, too, and it looks as though last minute sidewalk repairs are being completed. Another huge double headed eagle stands in front of the Skanderbeg statue. The Albanian eagle is such a unique and strong symbol, and paired with all the black and red everything looks gloriously unified and thoroughly ready for a celebration. I can’t quite put into words how I feel when I see all of the decorations, but it makes me happy to see the joy in everyone as they gear up for the celebration. Albania has had a difficult past, and independence means a great deal.
The plan for independence weekend vacation is to take Brian and Tim down to Gjirokaster, by way of Fier and Vlore. I know that I wasn’t that into Vlore the first time, but as I mentioned it is the site where the Declaration of Independence was signed, and where the Albanian flag was waved from what is now known as Independence Balcony. We’ve been told we’ll be in for a huge, messy celebration when we stop by- I am sure the rakiya will be flowing freely from those re-used Coke bottles!
Before Vlore we’re stopping to explore the 580 BC ruins of Apollonia near Fier. I honestly cannot rave enough about the ancient ruins of Albania. Butrint was incredible, so I am looking forward to Apollonia. Finally, we land in Gjirokaster for two nights- I am reading Ismail Kadare’s “Chronicle in Stone” in preparation for that part of the trip. It seemed interesting to visit the birthplace of Albania’s former dictator, Enver Hoxha, during an Independence Day vacation. That way we get the full sweep of history from ancient times in Fier to pivotal historical moments in Vlore to recent regimes with Enver and his bunkers.
Since driving has worked out so well for us thus far, we’re renting a car again, from the same spot across the street from our house, which means we’ll probably be in the same little red car they’ve given us every time. Driving makes our pit stops in Vlore and Fier much more manageable, without having to drag ourselves on and off buses with all of our things, or having to arrange timetables. Plus I don’t want to kill my friends by putting them on a bus and hoping the universe gives us a sane driver. I’m excited to give Bri and Tim a good old fashioned Albanian road trip, and can’t wait for tomorrow to get here!
I head straight from work to pick up the boys, and then it’s going to be a non-stop, independence vacation, visitors from America party for the next 5 days. I’ll see ya’ll on the flip side. Hopefully not of our car. Just, you know, the normal, safe, not related to cars flip side.
Originally published November 27th, 2012, on Blogger.
